If you want to frame cross stitch behind glass but do not like the look of a mat, frame spacers can keep the glazing away from the stitched surface. They are narrow strips fitted inside the frame rabbet to create a small gap between the glazing and artwork.
The principle is simple, but height and frame depth matter. A spacer that is too tall may not fit inside the frame, while one that is too shallow may still allow beads or dimensional stitches to touch.
A spacer replaces the distance normally created by a mat
A mat is not purely decorative. Its thickness also keeps artwork away from the glazing. When the mat is removed, another component needs to create that separation.
Frame spacers usually sit close to the edge of the glass where they are hidden behind the inside lip of the frame.
From the front, the fabric can appear to extend almost to the frame while the stitching remains slightly recessed behind the glazing.
Measure the highest stitch before choosing spacer depth
A design made only from ordinary crosses requires little clearance. French knots, beads, charms and padded details require more.
Use a straight strip or profile reference over the tallest area without pressing down to estimate how far the embellishment projects above the fabric.
The spacer should create more clearance than that projection so nothing touches once the frame is assembled.
Check the usable depth inside the frame
The frame must contain glazing, spacers, mounted textile, mounting board and backing. Shallow photo frames may not have enough rabbet depth for all of these layers.
Measure before mounting the fabric. If the assembled package protrudes too far, the backing may not close or may be forced under pressure.
A deeper frame is usually easier than trying to save a few millimeters by compressing the textile or using unsuitable support.
Spacers come in clear, black and other finishes
Clear styles can visually disappear along the glazing edge, while black often blends well with dark frames.
Choose a stable material intended for framing. When preservation matters, check the manufacturer’s information about composition and archival suitability.
Avoid improvised adhesive materials directly against the textile. The spacer should interact with the frame and glazing rather than being stuck onto the embroidery.
Install the spacer evenly on all sides
A tilted spacer can leave one corner of the glazing closer to the work. Cut accurately and make sure each strip sits continuously along its edge.
Depending on the product, the spacer may attach to glazing or to the frame interior. Follow the intended method and keep adhesive away from the textile.
Before closing the backing permanently, view the piece from several angles and confirm that no stitch or embellishment reaches the glazing.
When a mat is still the better solution
If you want visual breathing room, need to hide irregular fabric edges or want to fit a small design into a larger standard frame, a mat solves several problems at once.
Spacers are especially useful when you want a broad area of fabric visible or when a mat would interrupt the composition.
They also suit modern pieces where the visible Aida or linen is intentionally part of the design.
Matless framing does not have to mean pressing glass against the crosses. Spacers preserve a clean, direct appearance while maintaining protective clearance. Measure embellishment height and frame depth, choose a framing-safe material and verify the gap before the frame is sealed.
Before cutting final spacers, dry-fit the entire stack. Place the glazing, a temporary strip at the planned spacer depth and the mounted stitching inside the frame. This confirms actual clearance and rabbet depth before anything is attached permanently.
Spacers are also useful when the fabric itself is part of the display. Hand-dyed linen, colored Aida and generous negative space can remain visible almost to the frame edge instead of being covered by a mat.
On a very large frame, check whether thin acrylic bows inward at the center. A nominal spacer depth is less useful if the glazing flexes enough to approach the textile in the middle.
Keep a note of the spacer product and mounting method. If the piece is ever reframed, you will know how the glazing was separated and which components should stay away from the embroidery.
If the frame rabbet is uneven, check the clearance in several places rather than only one corner. The spacing should remain consistent around the whole perimeter.
A small test assembly also reveals whether the spacer itself is visible from the front. If it intrudes into the opening, choose a narrower profile or a frame with a wider inner lip.